Sunday, September 30, 2012

September 30 - Tivoli


This morning we went to Tivoli, which is a village just outside of Rome.  We went to see the Villa d'Este, which was home to the powerful Cardinal d'Este. In the late 1500’s he built a spectacular garden with more than 500 water fountains on hree terraces to entertain his guests and political allies. These gardens have been used as a blueprint for other European gardens, such as Versailles.

After the rush of yesterday with all the people crowded into one place, it was relaxing to go to an attraction and be able to have a leisurely stroll and relax.

D'Este Gardens

D'Este Gardens

We then headed to the south east coast of Italy and the small village of Selva di Fasano.  During our trip we travelled through the heavy industrial area between Rome and Naples.  During the ride down highway A1, we passed Monte Casino, site of one the major battles in the Second World War.  The Allies were forced to bomb a Monastery on top of this mountain to destroy Nazi spotters, despite a promise to the church not to destroy the Monastery. Unfortunately it had little or no effect on the ability of the Allies to advance to Rome.

We then headed east through the Apian Mountains to the Adriatic coast.  This can be best be described as a desert as it has no natural water sources to irrigate its crops. Population as you would expect was very sparse.

As we got closer to the Adriatic coast there were many olive groves and vineyards.   We then headed back into the hills to our hotel,”Sierra Sivana.”  Despite the negative reviews on Tripadvisor.com, we found this to be a wonderful hotel.  Our room had a nice patio to sit out on.  The hotel's gardens were lush and green.  The bar had an outdoor sitting area that overlooked an Olympic sized swimming pool.  The dinning room was bright and cheerful. 

The price of gas varies from about $2.20 to $2.70/litre.  Just as in Canada the price will go up on weekends and go down at the beginning of the week, but of course the oil companies are not price fixing!  

I guess we have a natural affinity to Australians.  We seem to spend most of our time with a couple from Brisbane or group of ladies from Melbourne.  Marg as usually has gotten to know quite a few people and I suspect by the end of the tour will have several new BBFs.  (sorry Dave and Sue)

Tonight we had drinks with a couple of Canadians, Danielle & Skieth Newman. Skieth played hockey with Yvon Cournoyer and knows many other hockey players through his career as VP in an investment company.  He also knows several politicians and told many interesting stories about the federal Quebec Liberals.

Saturday, September 29, 2012

September 29 - Vatican City & Rome

Today we had a full day of site seeing.  On the agenda was a trip to the Vatican, the Coliseum and a walking tour of downtown Rome.  I guess Trafalgar Tours believes we could see Rome in a day.

Our wakeup call was 6:15am, so that we could get to the Vatican Museum by 8:00am and beat the crowds.  The Vatican museum holds the 3rd largest collection of art in the world, only surpassed by the Hermitage in St. Petersburg and the Louvre in Paris.  Of course we only scratched the surface of this massive collection.  


The main highlight of museum tour was the Sistine Chapel.  The Sistine Chapel is where the famous Michelangelo's frescoes can be found.  He is responsible for the ceiling which is a series of frescoes denoting the book of Genesis from the creation of Earth, to the rebirth of life after the great flood.  The most famous is the fresco of God giving life to Adam and is located in the middle of the ceiling. Michelangelo panted most of the fresco on his back over a period of 4 years. 

The wall contains the huge fresco called the Last Judgement.  It took 5 years for Michelangelo to complete this work of art.  Our guide explain the political intrigue that surrounded this work of art including how a bishop who was an enemy of Michelangelo ended up being painted as the gate keeper of Hell complete with goat horns.  Also of some humorous note, some the naked butts where later covered up by other painters on the orders of the Pope.

Marg said she was overwhelmed by the sheer breath taking beauty of the Chapel.

Christina, our guide, also explained how the Sistine Chapel is used by the bishops in electing a new pope when required by the death of the existing Holy Father.  She pointed out the doorways that lead to the different chambers where all the action takes place, and where the new Pope retires to the mediate and to prepare to be introduced to the waiting crowds after his election by the conclave.

She also told us how in 2005, she heard that the white smoke had risen from the Sistine Chapel to indicate that a new Pope had been elected by the papal conclave. The tour group she was leading ran from their bus, which was stuck in traffic, and were able to witness Pope Benedict XVI as he was first introduced in St. Peter's Square.

St. Peter's Basilica

We then went to St. Peter's Basilica, which is the burial site of the disciple Peter and the most import church in the Roman Catholic religion.  The entire interior of St Peter's is lavishly decorated with marble statues and tile mosaics by many of the major Italian masters. The most famous of these statues is probably Michelangelo's Pieta 

The basilica contains a large number of tombs of popes many of which are considered outstanding artworks.  The most recent is the tomb of Pope John Paul the Second who was recently declared a saint.  The canopy over the Papal Altar was designed by Bernini, one of the great Italian masters.

When the Pope addresses the crowds in St. Peter’s Square he uses a balcony at the front of the Basilica.  Unfortunately he is at his summer residence and we won’t get to see him. Oh well, that’s his loss because we won’t be back for a least a year.

Vatican Museum

Vatican Museum

St. Peters

Michelangelo's Pieta

Another of the highlights for Marg were the Swiss Guards.  I guess she likes a man in uniform.

Swiss Guard

St. Peter's Square


Scooters and motorcycles seem to be a favorite form of transportation in Italy.  I guess the price of gas is a major factor.  I think, from my observations, that the speed limits and the normal rules of the road do not apply to these vehicles.

After lunch we went to the Coliseum.  This sports arena was built by two Roman emperors Vespasian and Titus to replace the estate of the disgrace Roman emperor Nero.  It was completed in 80AD. In this stadium the gladiators battled it out to the death for the enjoyment of the ancient Roman crowds.  Over 50,000 people could attend these games at one event. The architectural design is still popular in stadiums being design 2000 years later, with Yankee stadium in New York being a prime example. 


Coliseum

Coliseum


From the arena sitting area you can see the tunnels where the gladiators and the animals used for these blood sports were housed prior to their entrance on the stadium floor.  The Roman's designed elaborate elevators in order to have lions and other beasts appear as if magic on the Coliseum floor during battles between gladiators.Adjacent to the Coliseum,connected by tunnels, they have unearthed the training school for gladiators 

Contrary to popular mythology, this was not a place of mass executions of early Christians   At some point in time, one of the Popes established the Coliseum as a place to be used for Christian ceremonies. I can’t remember which Pope was responsible for this, because after all the historical facts being thrown our way by the guide today, I just don’t give a darn anymore. Traditionally the Pope initiates the Easter ceremony known as the Stations of the Cross, which circles the Coliseum.


Coliseum

Coliseum


After a short rest at the hotel we went on a walking tour of downtown Rome.  During this tour we visited the Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain, the Pantheon and Piazza Navona.  There were an incredible number of tourist at these sites.

According to legend if you throw a coin into Trevi fountain, it will mean that you will come back to Rome. But the crowds were so big we didn’t bother.  Instead we had a Gelato, which melted all over my white golf shirt. Dang!

Trevi Fountain

The Pantheon is a building which is 1900 years old and is the original structure.  It was originally a pagan temple that was later converted to a Christian church.  The dome is the largest dome in Rome and is bigger that Michelangelo's dome of St. Peters.  At the apex the roof is open to the elements.


Pantheon



Dome of the Pantheon


It would be interesting to see if there are more churches or restaurants in Italy.  It seems that each block has at least one church, restaurant, cafe, gelateria or bar.

For dinner we ate at a restaurant in the Piazza Navona, which is one the main squares in Rome.  We had Red Snapper cooked in a thick salt crust and despite the description, it was delicious. The fish was very moist and did not take on the taste of the salt.

The main statue in the square is Bernini's Fountain of the Four Rivers, which depicts the Danube, the Ganges, the Nile, and the Rio de la Plata.  The piazza was featured in Dan Brown's "Angels and Demons" and was used in the movie version which starred Tom Hanks.


Piazza Navona - Fountain of the Four Rivers


Friday, September 28, 2012

September 28 - Rome


This morning we went to the Hotel Milton to meet up with our tour group.  The hotel was originally an 18th century convent. It is a nice hotel but it is need of a general upgrade.  It is showing its age.  The room was, as we were told to expect, smaller than North American hotel rooms but it was very efficiently laid out.  It has a quite bar and a nice breakfast room.

While introducing ourselves to the tour director, Barbara, she informed us that I was just one of six men among 29 women.  I hope that doesn’t influence the itinerary with an over emphasises on shopping.  The group has Canadians, Australians, Americans, New Zealanders and South Africans.

Our hotel has an interesting “green” feature.  You must insert your room key into a reader turn on the electricity.  That way when you leave your room, the lights, TV and AC go out automatically and that saves energy. The only drawback is that you can’t charge your laptop while you’re out.

We went for a walk before lunch and found our way to the Coliseum area. At the restaurant Marg chose a Barolo wine from the Piedmont area of Italy. The waiter was so impressed with Marg’s selection that I thought he was going to sit down and join us for a glass.  Ken would love it here.  Each meal has a pasta dish.

After lunch we went to the Coliseum, but because we are going to go inside with the tour tomorrow, we only took some exterior pictures.  On our way back to the hotel we walked through an area known as the Domus Aurea.  This area contained the villa of Nero that was built after the great fire in 64AD. It unfortunately was closed for safety reasons.

Coliseum

Domus Aurea
Later I went to the Archbasilica of San Giovanni in Laterino  (St. John’s).  This is one of the four cathedrals in Rome and is the administrative headquarters for the Roman Catholic Church in Rome, as opposed to the Vatican.  It has its own Bishop.  The actual church was first built by Constantine in the fourth century and rebuilt in the sixteenth century in Baroque style.  The church has many spectacular works of art including statues of the disciples which form a walk of fame to the main alter.  It is easily one of the most impressive churches that I have ever visited.

San Giovanni Catheral

San Giovanni Catheral

The tour went out for dinner at restaurant with live entertainment.  Given our poor track record with this type of dinner theatre I was not expecting too much talent.  There was a folk singer and a flutist. They performed every song that you have heard in Mafia movie that contains a wedding scene.  I would have to say though that it did not suck.

Marg gets a rose
We then had a bus trip and saw St. Peters and the Coliseum under the lights.  Apparently the Pope was not at home.

Later back at the hotel we meet up with some Australian ladies for drinks. They quickly invited us to stay with them should we ever decide to visit Australia.  With these invitations from Trish and Lorraine along with the invitation by John and  Ellen from last year's River Boat Cruise, we won't be lacking for places to stay during our vacation down under.

Thursday, September 27, 2012

September 27 - Rome

We finally made it to Rome, after travelling more than 6500km and 14hrs. Our trip started with a puddle hopper flight from London to Montreal via Ottawa.  This was followed by a mad dash thru Trudeau airport from one end to the other to catch the flight to Rome.  The transatlantic flight took over 7 hours and that was a long boring ordeal.

We caught the hotel shuttle and took it into the heart of the city.  Traffic can only be described as nuts.  It seems that you don’t follow rules but instead just aim for open spaces in the traffic.  Our driver has been a taxi driver in Rome for the past 40 years.  Talk about a stressful job.  We followed the airport highway until we went under the old city walls.  These walls have defined the formal city of Rome for the past 2000 years.  Once we were inside the walls we continued on a beautiful tree lined boulevard to the hotel.  It still thrills me to be able to walk on the same ground as Julius Caesar did twenty centuries ago.

We were supposed to be staying at the Hotel Milton Roma, but they were having problems with their plumbing so we were sent to another hotel.  Talk about déjà vu, we had similar problems with our cruise ship when we went to Alaska this past summer.  We are staying at the Hotel Best Roma.  It is a beautiful hotel with a comfortable one bedroom suite.  The shower is a Jacuzzi with more than 20 jets and an electronic control panel.

After a short sleep, we went out for lunch.  We went to a sidewalk cafe call Le Caveau, where we had thin crust pizza and wonderful bottle of Chianti wine from Castel Greve.  After the meal our waitress, who was formally a fashion model from Romania, gave Marg some Lemoncello and a glass of Grappa for myself.  Marg wants to thank Heather for recommending this after meal liqueur.

Marg at the Pizza Vitorro
We then took a long walk along a main shopping concourse where we then stumbled upon the Basilicadi Santa Maria Maggiore.  This was the Palace of the Popes before the Vatican was established.  The main chapel is beautiful with many frescoes.  They were having a service when we entered, so we couldn’t take any pictures.  The grave of Bernini, who was responsible for all lot of art and statues in Rome is in the nave.

In legend it is told that the Basilica was build after a vision of Mary foretold of snow in Rome during August.  In the legend it did snow in August and the church was built in her honour,

The ceiling was made from gold that was pillaged from the Incas by the Spanish conquistadors in the 15th century,

Santa Maria Maggiore

Santa Maria Maggiore
On the way back to the hotel we walked through a peaceful park, Victor Emmanual II Park, with many people out enjoying themselves on the warm day.

Victor Emmanual II Park


Victor Emmanual II Park

Gas stations in the inner cities of Rome are nothing more than gas pumps along the curb of the street, kind of like a city bus stop.  You just pull up to the curb, pay with your credit card and pump the gas.  When finished you pull back into the traffic.  I guess there just isn`t enough property available to build a station.

Tuesday, September 18, 2012

Port Stanley - One Week To Go

As many of you already know, Marg and myself are going on an escorted tour of Italy, starting next Wednesday.  It has been 35 years since I was there and this will be Marg's first time.



We decided to take the easy way by having guides and transportation provided for us instead of arranging it all ourselves.  We are going with Trafalgar tours based on their itinerary and accommodations.  Here is a link to the tour.

http://www.trafalgar.com/grand-italian-experience-2012

We are really looking forward to the food, history and art.  It should be an amazing experience.